The
Yamanashi Prefecture is known for its wine, textiles, washi (traditional
Japanese paper), and of course, for their handcrafted jewelry. There is a
saying in the jewelry industry that the world looks to Japan for jewelry and
craft trends and the Japanese look to Yamanashi.
The
Yamanashi Prefecture is a landlocked county 75 miles from Tokyo. Its capital,
Kofu City, is known as the ‘City of Gems’ and is Japan’s primary producer of
jewelry and polished crystals.
The
traditional gem cutting and polishing techniques they’re known for were brought
to the area by Shinto priests who learned these skills in Kyoto. The artisans
still use these hand-crafting techniques, together with state-of-the-art modern
technologies. Today, they’re leading the world in stone-cutting and real pearl jewelry production Timeless
Pearl
Yamanashi’s Gem History
Yamanashi’s
jewelry-making history can be traced back for centuries to the Jomon Period
(14,000 BC – 300 BC). The word ‘Jomon’ means patterned, and refers to the style
of pottery made during that period. However, the fine decorating techniques
that they’re known for today were developed in the late Edo Period (1603-1868).
It
all started with the mining of rock crystals around Mt. Kinpu. There are two
major arms within the industry: Crystal crafts (cutting, carving, and
polishing) and precious metal working (cutting, shaving, soldering to join
pieces, and setting gems).
In
the early 20th century, electricity was widely adopted in Japan and became
commonplace in Yamanashi. As a result, polishing was mechanized with new
polishing machines driven by electricity, which changed the industry forever.
Suddenly, they were able to produce jewelry and polished gems on a much larger
scale. Even after the crystal supply in the area became exhausted, they
continued to import large quantities of gems which they then sold to the US,
China, and otherwise in Japan, after working their magic on the stones.
During
the Second World War, the focus of the crystal polishing factories shifted to
meeting the military’s needs, like producing optical lenses and crystal
oscillators. Additionally, since jewelry is a luxury item, demand for the
hand-crafted jewelry dwindled. In 1945, 80% of Kofu was leveled by air strikes,
but that didn’t bring the people of Yamanashi down. They quickly recovered
after the war and started to mass produce jewelry and crystal crafts, which
were mainly sold as souvenirs to the occupation soldiers.
Studying the Art Of Jewelry Making
Don’t
think you can take a summer class in jewelry-making and then call yourself a
jeweler in Yamanashi. In fact, it takes three to four years of strenuous
studying to master the craft.
In
1981, the Yamanashi Prefectural Jewelry Art College opened its doors to train
young people in the art of making jewelry. Students studying at this famous
design school are completely disconnected from the outside world. Their mobile
phones are taken away, and they’re immersed in jewelry-making all day. And if
they’re not polishing gems or crafting jewelry, they’re thinking about how to
design masterpieces.
After
three to four years of study, students are eligible to enter the industry to
become jewelry designers.
What Makes Yamanashi’s Jewelry So Special?
Jewelry
is far more than just an external decoration. It conveys emotions and thoughts.
Jewelry is like poetry, and the designers and craftsmen of Yamanashi understand
this.
Craftsmen
are expected to be competent in many different facets of jewelry-making: From
casting the precious metals, to engraving intricate patterns, to perfectly
balancing the design. They also need to be able to interpret design drawings
the way the designer envisioned while keeping in mind how the jewelry